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Messages - Ari Altman

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If you can't find the option to stop AISuite from starting, just uninstall it for now.

Only the auto overclock. The XMP profile is safe. Totally within limits.

Sorry to sound retarded, but how do I disable the auto overclock?  I saved my preset for the overclock but not the stock settings so I don't even remember what they were.  Ditto for the graphics card settings.

Just prevent the Asus app from starting up by going into the settings and unchecking startup with Windows. It shows that option if you right-click on the taskbar menu icon. MSI Afterburner has it in the interface settings, but that one you can EASILY reset just by moving the sliders back to zero and clicking apply.

Only the auto overclock. The XMP profile is safe. Totally within limits.

From everything or just CPU?

Since it's during gaming, remove overclock of CPU and GPU. Then game for a while to see if that ends crashing. Next try a smaller overclock on the GPU. The hardest thing to do is CPU. Let's leave that alone for a while.

Hi guys,

I have been busy gaming on my still-going-strong build from 2015  :o can't believe it's been that long!!

I love the additions to the site and all the great information you have been adding. I came back to check on a build for my nephew, he wants to build his own rig and is very excited about it (he even told his dad he doesn't want a PS5, he would rather build a PC, which made us all gasp lol). I definitely told him about this great site to gain some knowledge and guidance, but I ran into a curious trend that I was unaware:

TL;DR - would this work on my July 2015 build TP-LINK Archer T6E AC1300 ? I would love the flexibility to move the pc anywhere in the house. Do you think is always better to be connected to the router via cable?

Thanks in advance.

Welcome back, HPzota! Awesome to hear that your 2015 build is still meeting your needs. According to the TBG Archives, the $1,500 Gaming PC from 2015 used Z97 motherboard and either a 4690K or 4790K processor.  Z97 motherboards typically had either 5 or 6 PCIe slots, plus either 1 or 2 legacy PCI slots. The good news is that you can drop the TP-Link Archer T6E right into one of your board's free PCIe slots - just don't try to fit it into a PCI slot, which looks different (it's offset to the left). A wired connection is definitely the most stable, but as long as you aren't too far from your router, wireless is just as good. One word of caution: if your router doesn't offer the modern 802.11ac standard, you should probably upgrade, and I suggest a mesh system to most people, like the excellent TP-Link Deco M5.

And please report back if your nephew ends up building one of the rigs listed in the current TBG guides!

My PC freezes once a night.  Every odd once in a while twice.  No error message 90% of the time.  Just totally freezes to where I have to hold down the power button on the case until it completely shuts off, then have to turn it back on.  What could be causing this?  Only seems to happen when playing games but it may have happened when I'm not.  I'm not completely sure.

Remove the overclock.

Home Automation / Re: TBG's Smart Home Buyer's Guide
« on: May 20, 2019, 11:54:34 AM »
TBG has made lots of changes to its Smart Home Buyer's Guides for Spring 2019, so feel free to ask questions here!

What's a good test to run to benchmark my system to make sure I did all this right?  I had one program I bought on Steam but I don't remember what it was called.

Also, I tried syncing my iPhone to new PC (couldn't do it for the last year or 2 on last build after being able to do it for the previous 9 years) and no such luck again.  I don't know what's going on.  I know last time I talked to you about it you said you're more of an android guy so you didn't really have any advice.  This is a big deal to me and I don't understand what's going wrong.  I have everything backed up to iCloud except some music/photos/video's.  And for whatever reason when I start syncing from photos app, sometimes it doesn't find my iPhone XS Max at all, and other times when it does, it'll start syncing process only to stop moments later "because an error occurred."  After this happens it typically doesn't find the iPhone again unless you unplug it and start process over again, but at this point I have about a full year of photos/video's that haven't been synced and if something happens to my phone those memories are lost forever.  I guess I'll have to contact Apple or Microsoft and see if they can help me figure this out.

Most likely the app you bought was 3DMark. See if you can find that on your Steam account. It's not under games, it's under "Software" in the "Library" menu.

I'd recommend you go to the Genius bar at an Apple store if you can, perhaps with a screenshot of what happens when you try to connect. Honestly, connecting smartphones of all types to a PC has always been much harder than it should be, and the iPhone is absolutely the worst. Whenever I try to connect iPhones for family members, half the time it doesn't work. My guess is that Apple just doesn't care about the drivers it writes for Windows.


Thank you Ari, for your thorough reply! Do you think the Komplett build would be more or less noisy than your build?

Also, I am planning to buy an ultrawide monitor (something like this one or this ). Would your build be able to handle these types of monitors?

The noise from a PC is determined by two things: the fans (on the case, CPU cooler, GPU, and PSU) and the degree to which the case blocks the noise. The one problem with the Komplett PC is that it uses an unusually small Noctua cooler, and smaller fans are always louder at the same cooling level. I would never recommend that cooler in a giant case like the Fractal. So overall, the $1,250 build will be quieter.

In terms of the monitors, the first thing to know is that the LG is a terrible price. It hasn't dropped enough in price since release. As for whether the system can handle it, its ports can absolutely handle the resolution, but it really comes down the games you're playing. Trying to run WoW versus something like Metro Exodus is going to be completely different. You have to decide how much extra power you want to buy now to run games you don't own yet.

Hi Ari,
Thank you for maintaining this site! I was about to order your build when someone recommended this other build to me. It is a little more expensive (approx. $400 more, assuming I build it myself), but is it any better? I am having a hard time comparing the specs as it has been 10 years since I built my last pc. I would love to get your opinion on it, if you wouldnīt mind taking a look please?

This is the build:
(the site is in Norwegian, but you should be able to read the specs of the components even so)

I am not a huge gamer (I will just be playing WoW Classic, which is not demanding at all), so silence is more important than power for me - but I would like to be able to play any new games that come out in the next few years on decent settings.

Thank you so much in advance :)

Hello, Frey! I'm guessing you're from Norway, so thanks for journeying all the way to the TBG Forum!

The system you've linked to is a very nice one, and is a higher-end build than the $1,250 Quiet Gaming PC. But if you're just playing WoW Classic, you really don't need a GeForce RTX 2070, which is a $500 GPU on its own. The RTX 2060 in the current $1,250 build is more than capable of handling any new games at decent settings.

Looking at the other components, the Core i7-8700 is a fairly good choice, but it too is pretty expensive, about 40% more than the Ryzen 7 2700 but not even 10% faster. The biggest problem is the Kingston A1000 480GB, which is an old PCIe drive that just doesn't offer great performance or capacity for the price. I'd prefer a WD Blue 3D 1TB SATA drive assuming you can use the space, or perhaps one of the really good 512GB PCIe, like the XPG SX8200 Pro.

The last thing I'll say is that that Fractal Design Define R6 is a very nice case, and is indeed very quiet, but from my point of view, Fractal hasn't really kept up with current design trends. The R6 is big and boxy just like earlier R-series cases, and has an awkward hard drive cage that makes it more difficult to work with. If you really like that style, then go for it, but the Phanteks P400S case that costs about 3/5 as much is just as quiet, and much more compact.

The builds on TBG are updated every month taking into account the latest product releases and price cuts, which helps readers get the best components possible. The pre-made system on is a high-quality build, but I'd guess it was designed about six months ago based on the component choices, so it's just a bit out of date.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!

I was able to bend the cooler and get plenty of clearance.  Thank you!  I did try taking that heatsink off the board, but it was covering some chips so I figured leaving it off wasn't a good idea.  Looks like this new cooler has quite a bit more clearance to the PSU than the other one, too.  Love the build guide!  I have been using Macs for quite awhile, and it's been years since I built a PC.  So useful!  This build is for a portable VR gaming machine.

Great to hear that worked! And yeah, the Noctua NH-L12S is just 70mm tall, versus 83mm for the SilverStone NT06-Pro, so you get a lot more clearance between it and the power supply. That provides more space for air to move, and the other benefit is that the fan on the NH-L12S is much quieter. The trade-off is that it's offset a little closer to the motherboard heatsinks, which is what you found, but actually you're the first reader to say it didn't fit. A number of other readers have tried it and it worked. My guess is that manufacturing tolerances are off enough that it couldn't quite clear with your sample. That's how close it is!

In any event, sounds like you'll be up and running soon enough. Enjoy!

Okay, I'll try that.  Any advice on how to bend them?  Just pliers?  I tried pushing on them and they seemed pretty stout.  Thanks!

Just try to use your hands, holding the base firmly in one hand and pushing on the back of the heatpipes with the palm of your other hand. Don't use pliers, as that could snap the pipes. If you can't do it by hand, let me know, and I'll update the guide (again), switching back to the NT06.

And I should say that I'm quite aware of the problem with the heatsink covers on the newest motherboards. It's most definitely not just the Gigabyte Z390I Aorus, in fact, a number of Asus boards are much worse in this regard, making it impossible to use any low-profile heatsinks. And this is all causing a lot of headaches for PC builders. It's shame that these purely decorative covers are breaking compatibility with numerous coolers. I've previously made both SilverStone and Noctua aware of the problem.

In fact, AudiAddict, whose system you see profiled in the Gallery, HATED the NT06-Pro, which is why I switched it out!

This past week I purchased all of the parts in this build guide, but when I went to assemble I had an issue.  The CPU cooler now listed (Noctua NH-L12S) does not fit.  The heat pipes contact the heat sync on the Z390 I Aorus board, and it does not sit flat on the CPU.  I noticed in the reader build they are using the cooler from previous builds (SilverStone NT06-PRO-V2) with the Z390 I Aorus board and it clears.  Thought I would mention it, as I am returning the Noctua cooler and getting the SilverStone.

Thanks for checking in, taylorj3. You can actually bend the heatpipes on the Noctua slightly to get it to sit correctly. The NT06 Pro was swapped out because the Noctua really is a nicer cooler. Have another look before you box it up.

Okay, I got the XMP done and changed it to 170% like you said.  So it looks like the 3200 RAM overclock and 5.0ghz CPU overclock has taken place.

Now for overclocking the GPU.  I downloaded MSI Afterburner.  But I don't know what numbers to put in when I'm in there.  What do I overclock it to?  Where do I input the numbers?  Remember I'm a noob in all this lol.

I'll have to see if I can figure out the RGB issue.  If I hit the reset switch it changes all the different lighting modes on the case.  Only problem is it doesn't seem to have an OFF setting. 

Last, I'm noticing when I start up my PC, it looks like AI Suite 3 is booting up every time when I boot the PC up, then I have to right click on it and hit Exit every time.  I looked on apps that start up when PC does and it isn't listed.  How can I get that to stop?

Sounds like you made progress on the CPU and RAM overclocks. You can probably just leave them there from here on out. But the fact that AI Suite is starting up isn't a problem - that's how it's supposed to work. It applies the overclock (if AI Suite has been used to set it in the first place).

In terms of the GPU overclock, I'd probably leave it at the factory overclock for now. If you really want to tinker, you can increase the core clock by 50MHz and the memory clock by 250MHz, and also make sure the raise the power limit to the max. Don't forget to apply the changes to see them take effect, and right click on a profile number to save them to a profile.

And yeah, as for your lights, it sounds like your builder just hooked them up to the case, not the motherboard. If you want to shut them off, you'll need to pull the power plug for them. Should be a SATA power connector somewhere connected to the wires coming from the front fans.

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